Under the arcades of the Palais-Royal, a small group awaits the opening of the Comédie-Française boutique, this Thursday 1is February, shortly before noon. Every week, the institution puts on sale around thirty costumes worn on stage. « We have to make room », specifies Martine Villemot, delegate for commercial activity. And for good reason: more than 50,000 pieces are kept in the institution’s reserves.
Chain mail, capes, doublets and coats are stored on three racks, between the back of the shop and the theater entrance hall. « We choose costumes that we are sure we will not reuseexplains Anne Marret, general secretary of the Comédie-Française. The structure of the patterns and all the manufacturing techniques are archived. We can redo them identically if necessary.. »
A few minutes after opening, the entrance hall transforms into a fitting room. Edson Dos Santos, 38, theater teacher in Essonne, is changing in a corner. For the needs of a play that he is putting on with his students, he wishes to invest in « a colorful jester costume, such as Sganarelle or Scapin”. After a conclusive fitting, he leaves with a burgundy outfit, designed in 1990 for an actor in the Flying Doctorby Molière.
Ephemeral thrift store
Each piece was made to measure. The label attached to the garment indicates the name of the play, the costume designer, the character who wore it and the date of performance. To help customers project themselves, Martine Villemot informs them about the appearance of the actor or actress for whom the outfit was designed. Sandra, 52, an insurance employee, has just bought a stage costume for her husband: « I’m hopeful that the size will suit him, the actor who wore it is stout, and the piece has room for comfort. »
This Thursday, the wardrobe of Molière’s characters is in the spotlight, with many clothes from Bourgeois gentleman : chocolate cotton twill coat, short wool crepe tunic, silk velvet leotard. A hanger wears a heavy cape worn, in 1995, by an actor playing Hamlet. In the wardrobe, we also find a few hats and pieces designed for more contemporary settings, such as a cotton breeches worn in 1974 by a “man of the people” in a representation ofOndineby Jean Giraudoux.
This ephemeral thrift store attracts theater, history and fashion enthusiasts. Aline Berenguer, 36, modeler at Dior, is a regular at these weekly sales. Fond of costume balls and medieval festivals, she is looking for clothing for an evening. She took a few work colleagues on board her quest. « Once I buy them, I alter them and adapt them to my measurements », she says. Ronald Fonrose, 43, works in fashion. He wants an outfit for the Venice carnival. « We immediately see the quality of the outfits. They have a vibration, a story. They are heavy and precious”, he observes, passing his hand over a rack. Alexey Asantcheeff, a 39-year-old musician, is looking for an outfit for the bassist of his music group, “who plays the role of the made-up marquis”.
You have 35% ..